星期一, 9月 05, 2005

泰昌餅家回來了 (飲食) / The return of Taicheng Bakery (Gourmet)

三個多月前因業主收回舖位而停業的中環泰昌餅家,可望在未來一至兩個月內復業。我星期六經過中環擺花街,見到泰昌餅家的新舖正在裝修,店後烘培室已裝妥部份設備,惟前店尚未裝修。未備手機跟電腦的接駁線,故未能讓大家看到拍得的裝修中店面。

泰昌餅家新店於舊舖對面,於黎巴嫩菜館Assaf及匯豐銀行分行之間,離舊舖約一百米,略近荷李活道。該店以舊式港風麵包餅食聞名,最後一名港英總督彭定康(Chris Patten)品嘗過該店的蛋撻(塔)後,該店名聲更響。

談到蛋撻,據研究香港舊事的浸會大學傳理學院教師吳昊所寫,最初的蛋撻出自約八十年前,即一九二零年代的廣州。其時廣州茶樓注重「星期美點」,即每星期更換的特色點心,以招徠顧客;有一家茶樓的廚師,從英國式果撻得靈感,以蛋液為餡,並皮焗之,創製新品種甜點蛋撻。早期蛋撻多呈橢圓形,漸漸演化成今日常見的圓形。

Taicheng, a bakery situated in Central, Hong Kong Island, had to closed down this May. It shall resume business coming 1 or 2 months. I strolled Lyndhurst Terrace last Saturday and saw the new shop of Tai Hing was being renovated. The baking room was partially set; however, the work of frontside shop area seemed has not begun yet. I took a picture of it by my mobile phone, I would share it with all of you if I had a cable to connect my phone with my computer.

The new shop is situated between Lebanese restaurant Assaf and HSBC branch, which is at the opposite side of the old shop, 100m west of it and nearer to Hollywood Road. Taicheng is well-known of traditional Hong Kong style bakings. It came more popular after Chris Patten, the last Hong Kong Governor, praised its egg tarts.

According to the writing of Ng Ho, a HKBU School of Communication teacher who also studies ong Kong history, egg tarts originated in 1920s Guangzhou, a southern China city not far from Hong Kong. The tea-houses in 1920s Guangzhou like to attract more patrons by their own 'weekly dimsum'. Cooks from a tea-house were inspired by British fruit tarts, and created their own sweet tart by using eggs as filling. Early tarts were oval in shape, and came to circle later.

延伸閱讀 Further Reading
Florence:再別肥彭蛋撻店.長龍之謎 Florence Lai: Goodbye, Chris' favourite Egg Tart bakery, and the mystery of long queue (Big 5 Chinese only)
線上《廣州市志》:卷六二章二節〈點心〉Guangzhou Introduction and History 6.2.2: Dimsum (GB Chinese only)

4 Comments:

Anonymous 靖然 ≒ wally said...

雖然重開,但能保持舊店的風貌嗎?或許食物飲品的味道可以保存,但店舖裝修佈置卻不可能還原了。香港的地道特色店舖買少見少,而香港人很喜歡拆樓(尤其是舊的),大家要好好珍惜,刻意或偶然行過這些店舖最好入去坐下。我沒到過泰興餅家,還有個多月前結業的民園麵家,很久以前經過拍照沒幫襯。都感到有點可惜。

週二 9月 06, 09:30:00 上午 GMT+8  
Anonymous 靖然 ≒ wally said...

還有,聖安娜的蛋撻是橢圓形的!

週二 9月 06, 09:41:00 上午 GMT+8  
Blogger Eric 'Spanner' said...

老貓燒鬚,誤將泰興當泰昌,可能真的太掛念泰興光學和太興燒味了。

新店似乎沒有重塑老舖的風味,未知會否搬一些舊東東過來。是的,聖安娜的橢圓蛋撻,甚至印至它自家的硬紙餅盒上。

週二 9月 06, 11:13:00 下午 GMT+8  
Blogger San Wen Ji said...

原來某餅店的橢圓型蛋撻是古老當時興。

週五 9月 09, 09:45:00 上午 GMT+8  

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